Cheong Su Dang Bakery • 청수당 베이커리

Cheong Su Dang Bakery (청수당 베이커리) is one of the many popular aesthetic cafes in Ikseon-dong (익선동) that has gone viral on social media since the first time they opened their door to the public. Their iconic entrance of lush bamboo trees around a small pond with stepping stones leading to the entrance of the cafe is probably one of the most popular photo spot around this neighborhood and it has been shared thousands of times on social media. And even if you’ve never seen the pictures of this place online, the beautiful facade of the bakery will definitely make you stop in your tracks or pique your interest at the very least if you happen to walk by this place.

Since their opening in Summer 2020, the bakery has maintained their popularity among the locals as well as tourists which led to their space renewal and expansion last year in July. The beautifully designed space is the work of Glow Seoul, an architecture and design studio that’s responsible for many other popular cafes in South Korea. The current space is a combination of 6 hanoks surrounded with bamboo trees and ponds with calm flowing water, giving patrons a tranquil escape in the middle of the city. 

My first visit to Cheong Su Dang Bakery was last year in spring with my cousins (this was 3 months before their expansion). They came pretty early, before the place was even open and immediately got a table when the cafe opened. Maybe because it’s still early and a weekday because usually you’ll need to line up to get a table at this place, especially on the weekends. The cafe has a couple of different indoor and outdoor seating areas—individuals and community tables and table floor seatings—and we picked a table facing the street that’s a little bit hidden between two walls.

Since the dessert portion is pretty big, we decided to order 2 desserts and 2 drinks to share between the three of us. 

Stone Drip Egg Coffee (스톤 드립 계란 커피) ₩7,800

Stone drip coffee with fresh egg yolk cream on top, torched crème brûlée style.
스톤 드립 커피 위에 신선한 계란 노른자로 직접 만든 크림을 올려 토치로 마무리한 크램 브륄레(crème brûlée)식 커피.

My cousin ordered this and since I don’t drink coffee, I can’t really give a review on how it tasted. But she said it was pretty good. 

Black Sesame Fromage Cake (흑임자 프로마주 케이크) ₩15,000 | 8.5/10

Sponge cake soaked in black sesame, topped with roasted walnut, mascarpone cheese, milk cream, and black sesame powder.
흑임자 베이스를 흠뻑 적신 시트 위에 구운 호두 마스카포네 치즈와 우유크림을 얹은 후 청수당의 현무암을 표현한 스폰지 케이크와 흑임자 가루로 데코한 청수당만의 특별한 디저트.

My favorite out of the two desserts we tried. As a black sesame flavor enthusiast, I really enjoyed this chilled dessert. Moist sponge cake with earthy, not too sweet black sesame flavor. The roasted walnut in the middle was a nice little surprise to the bite.

Strawberry Compote Souffle Castella (딸기 수플레 카스텔라) ₩18,800 | 7/10

Soft and warm made to order soufflé castella with refreshing strawberry compote and fresh milk cream on top.
부드럽고 따뜻한 수플레 카스텔라 위에 상큼한 딸기 콩포트와 신선한 우유크림이 듬뿍 올려진 디저트로 주문과 동시에 만들어지는 오더 메이드 디저트.

Honestly, this one is a bit underwhelming for me (or maybe I was just expecting too much). Not that it didn’t taste good or anything because flavor wise it was good and it was a well-made dessert. I think anybody who likes strawberry or souffle castella would enjoy this dessert. It’s just for their signature menu and considering the price point, it felt a little bit ordinary. Like I’ve tasted these flavors before. Also worth noting, this is a warm dessert.

Is this place worth the hype it has on social media? If what you’re looking for is an aesthetic cafe to take nice pictures at, I’d probably say yes. But with caveat that you know how to take a good shot and to properly edit your pictures because from a photographer’s perspective, the lighting around this place is a bit challenging, especially on a bright sunny day. My suggestion is to go during sunset time or on a cloudy day for a better lighting (less harsh contrast on the shadows and highlights and you can pull more colors out of your shot). 

But if what you’re looking for is a nice relaxing place to hangout at, the short answer is probably no, especially if you have to line up for hours for a table. This place is always pretty packed with locals and tourists (I don’t know how it is nowadays but every time I passed by this place in the past it always looked pretty busy) and it can get a little bit noisy if the place is full. The drinks and desserts that I had were also just alright considering the somewhat high price point (although price wise, it’s probably similar to other cafes in the area since cafes in Ikseon-dong is notorious for being on the more expensive side).

My personal take, if you’re really curious to check out the place and experience dining at the bakery then go for it. They do have nice interesting architecture and interior design and their menu is pretty decent. But if you’re traveling, have limited time and have other cool cafes that you want to check out, you can probably just see the cafe from outside and spend your time somewhere else. Would I go back to this place again? If I have friends who are visiting Seoul and they want me to go check the place out with them, then sure, I wouldn’t mind going for their sake. Other reason that might make me want to go back is to check out their new space after the expansion (and only if the place is not busy). But for now, I think I’m pretty content with just visiting this place once.

 

Cheong Su Dang Bakery • 청수당 베이커리

Address: 서울 종로구 돈화문로11나길 31-9
Telephone: 0507-1318-8215
Hours: Everyday 10:30 - 21:00 (Last Order 20:30)

Instagram: @cheongsudang_

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Simple Tokyo • 심플도쿄

Simple Tokyo (심플도쿄) was a small homestyle Japanese-fusion restaurant in Ikseon-dong (익선동) that I visited a couple of years ago for a dinner with a friend. The restaurant occupied a small space that was decorated beautifully with white light panels, wooden hanok inspired structure, green bamboo plants, and marble tables and white chairs that were placed on a Japanese zen garden inspired flooring. If you pass by this place during night time, the lights from inside definitely will catch you eyes and that's exactly why me and my friend decided to eat here.

We both ordered their Beef Brisket Nabe Udon (차돌 나베 우동) and it was really good. It came with shiitake and oyster mushroom, cabbage, and plenty of leeks on top. The broth was super rich and flavorful, the meat was tender and the portion was pretty fulfilling. It was a perfect meal for a cold night.

Unfortunately, the restaurant has closed a year or so after its opening because the last time I passed by this location, the space has been emptied out. Even so, thought I share the pictures from this place because the interior was pretty.

Simple Tokyo • 심플도쿄 (CLOSED)

Instagram: @simpletokyo_official

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Seoul Coffee Ikseon • 서울커피 익선본점

Seoul Coffee (서울커피 익선점) is one of the earliest occupants in Ikseondong (익선동) before the area became one of the hippest neighborhoods in Seoul that it is now. Opening its flagship store in June 2017, my first visit to the cafe was a month after its opening. The cafe is housed in one of the numerous old hanok structures that can be found around the small alleyways in Ikseondong area.

The first thing that will greeted you when you visit the cafe is a thick old wooden door with a nostalgic vintage barber shop signage placed above the solid entrance with the words ‘Seoul Coffee’ rotating slowly inside it. The door itself, preserved in its original form which I imagined was used as a shield by the previous occupants of the residence to fend off any unwanted interactions from the outside world, looks quite intimidating. (Honestly, I was intimidated to go in the first time I passed by this place. Had to go around the block to gather up some courage to push open that wooden door.) But the yellow vintage signage and the glass wall next to it providing a glimpse of what’s inside were warm, intriguing and inviting enough to overcome that feeling of intimidation and replaced it with curiosity. At least that was the case for me.

From the moment I stepped into the space, it was clear to me that the owner(s) (and probably the architects) of this place care greatly about the architecture and design of the store. From the structure of the cafe, the choice of materials and furnishings used for the interior, to the well-designed branding of their menus and products, they all work together wonderfully as a cohesive brand. The space exudes a feeling of nostalgia but feels modern at the same time. It’s old and new, rustic and contemporary, organic and structured all at the same time. The abundant natural light illuminating the place during the day also makes it possible for visitors to observe and enjoy these elements and be immersed in the restored vintage space. Combined this with the coffee aroma that filled the place and the aesthetically pleasing pastries (and additionally the cube ice cream during the summer) neatly displayed on the counter, Seoul Coffee easily became one of my favorite cafe in Ikseondong.

During this particular visit, since it was in the middle of summer, I wanted to try their cube ice cream (큐브 아이스크림) which is one of their signature menu. I think before this, I’ve never seen a cube ice cream designed, packaged, displayed and photographed like how theirs are. So I ordered the strawberry cube ice cream (딸기 큐브 아이스크림) and iced Boseong green tea (보성 녹차) to wash down the sweetness of the ice cream. The cube ice cream itself tasted good. It was flavorful and not too overtly sweet, which I prefer.

A little bit of a tip from me, I’ve been going to this spot for numerous times now and I find that the best time to go is on a weekday during a clear day. The cafe is well-lit during this time and it’s not too crowded with people, which makes your visit more enjoyable if you’re looking for a quite place to have your coffee or read a book. In the evenings, the place is pretty dimly lit, which makes a romantic spot, I guess, but might be hard for you to take photographs or read a book at. During the weekends it could get pretty crowded and noisy.

Other than the cube ice cream (딸기 큐브 아이스크림), other signature menus that you might want to try include their Angbutter Bread (앙버터 식빵), Injeolmi Tiramisu (인절미 티라미수), and Vienna Milk Tea (비엔나 밀크티).

Note: These photos were taken before the pandemic.

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Additionally, I’ve done a little bit of research and reading into their design and branding. The Seoul Coffee website gives a good insight into what their story and philosophy behind the brand are. The site is entirely in Korean but if you’re interested in reading more about it, here’s a quick translation of the website via google translate that I did (apologies in advance for any mistake in translation):

Photo Source: Seoul Coffee Website

About Seoul Coffee - Epilogue

It is not easy to find old traces in Seoul, which grows and changes day by day. The old shop, where people always came and went, has changed owners over time and has been transformed into a stylish shopping district. The red mailbox that I saw while walking down the street, the mill that gave off a fragrant smell, and the small coffee shop where we talked about coffee cups are now only left in my memory. I thought it was unfortunate that many people were only looking for a new culture, leaving behind the ordinary but delicious food of that time and the neat and quiet beauty of a hanok.

With this thought in mind, we thought about the factors that can change our old things while maintaining them at the same time. Seoul Coffee is the first project that started out of longing for things that have passed. For modern people who like simple and sophisticated atmosphere, I wanted to remind them once again of the comfort that familiar things provide rather than the feeling of old [outdated]. It's the kind of comfort that can only be felt in furniture that has faded over time. Even though Seoul Coffee is a little rough among the existing standardized stores, it conveys the comfort of 'familiar' rather than 'old'. It is our wish to deliver a cozy space and authentic food that captures the sentiments of old Seoul.

Photo Source: Seoul Coffee Website

Seoul Coffee - Brand Identity

There was a time when I was playing 'Mugunghwa has bloomed' as a child. In those days, Mugunghwa flowers were common, but now it is difficult to see them wherever you go on the streets of Seoul. Mugunghwa, which means endless new flowers blooming every day, is also connected to the strong self-reliance and the spirit and spirit of our people. We tried to reflect the meaning of the Korean flower, Mugunghwa, which has become a rare flower, and to capture the heart of Seoul Coffee, which keeps and develops the old things.

Photo Source: Seoul Coffee Website

Seoul Coffee - Brand Concept

With the motif of an image that was often seen in Seoul in the 1980s, the concept of natural connection between the old and the new was taken. Using chairs and tables made of wood and basalt that we do not get tired of even after looking at them for a long time, we created a space where they can naturally blend in, alongside with plant decorations everywhere. Additionally, the round sphere-shaped lights also give a sense of comfort.

Photo Source: Seoul Coffee Website

Seoul Coffee - Ikseon Story

As I was walking down a rustic alley in Ikseon-dong, which I found by chance at sunset, I recalled the vague memories of going back to my childhood and playing hide and seek with my friends. Those days when you could eat everything from sweets to chocolate ice cream for 500 won. Now that we are changing and developing day by day, we may be missing the good old days even though it is rather slow. 

Ikseon-dong, which has preserved its old appearance from the faded wooden gates, quiet stone walls, and rustic laundry, is the oldest hanok village in Seoul that has endured over 100 years, and is a precious place where the present and the past coexist. Ikseon-dong has maintained its long history in a rapidly developing city, just as the sophistication of the new is only temporary and the comfort of the old makes you stop for a moment. The only place where time has stopped in the middle of the bustling and lively Jongno. 

The nostalgic atmosphere of Seoul in the ‘80s felt in Ikseon-dong is also the biggest reason why Seoul Coffee is located here. Ikseon-dong and Seoul Coffee have a lot in common in that they do not simply stay in the tradition, but change the old ones to fit the present. As much as we have taken our first steps in a good space, we will always move forward slowly with a humble attitude to preserve the good culture unique to Seoul

Photo Source: Seoul Coffee Website

Seoul Coffee - Philosophy

01. We Continue the Past into the Present
Memories have a newer and longer lasting scent than your memory. Seoul Coffee, which started out of nostalgic longing for the past, seeks to find things that contain traces of time, and wants to continue the memories of the old days that we miss when we are tired of new things.

02. We Make Our Food
Memorable foods such as pretzels, dalgona, and kimchi sikhye that I enjoyed eating at the market with my mother when I was a child are rare these days. These days, where only Western-style desserts are available, we want to let you know that ours is good enough, and we want to be a new type of cafe that preserves the old but interprets it anew.

03. We Deliver the Culture of Seoul
Seoul, which has grown faster than any other city, is now one of the cities that many people around the world pay attention to. As the saying goes that the most Korean thing is the most global thing, with this sentiment, Seoul Coffee aims to create our own wonderful culture together.

(Excerpt taken from Seoul Coffee website.)

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Also, if you’re interested in reading about the design process behind the space and how it was build, the architect of the space LABOTORY, shared their story on an arch daily article.

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Seoul Coffee Ikseon • 서울커피 익선점

Address: 서울 종로구 수표로28길 33-3
Telephone: 0507-1404-4890
Hours: Everyday 11:00-22:30

Instagram: @seoulcoffee1945

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12 months • 열두달

Eating at 12 months (열두달) is like eating in a mini cafeteria. The hanok restaurant that’s located at Ikseon-dong (익선동) actually housed 6 different brands that have different menus that focus on different things ranging from meat, pasta, vegetables to drinks. It’s actually a great concept for a group of people who might have different cravings but still want to eat together because you can just select from the different concept menus that they have.

The interior of the place is also very homey. Maybe because the original structure of the hanok is kept so I felt like stepping into someone’s house. I also like how they have different sections of seatings, from the middle area that’s lit by the natural lighting from the glass ceiling above to the more private seatings that are divided by shelves and walls.

The first time I went to 12 months (열두달) was when it was just opened. There’s always a line in front of the place on the weekends so I decided to go during odd hours on a weekday to avoid the queue. Sure enough, the place was not too busy when I got there. There were still people eating, but at least I don’t have to wait in line. After looking through their menu, I ended up ordering ROOT’s creamy mushroom pasta and it was delicious. The portion was pretty big, the sauce was the right amount of creamy with earthy flavors and it was topped with generous serving of sliced mushrooms. I’ve been back a couple of times since then with my friends and they all seemed to like the food there. Unfortunately, I think the place just closed recently and has been replaced by another store because I can no longer find it on the map.

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Ellie • 엘리

Ellie (엘리) is one of the many cafes in Ikseon-dong (익선동) that retained the older hanok structure of the building and transformed the space into a modern cafe. The mix between old and new is a common theme for cafes around Ikseon-dong and I’m kinda liking it. Places like this gives a somewhat nostalgic and homey vibes when I walk into it. Ellie is actually one of the cafe that I visited during my early days of Ikseon-dong exploration before the area was as popular as it is now. I remembered the things that I love from my first visit were the natural lighting that came through from the glass ceiling and the overall layout of the space. Their drinks and cake selections are pretty good and seatings are plenty inside the cafe. I usually came here on weekdays so seating wasn’t a big problem, but the place do get crowded during weekends and you might have to wait for an open spot.

Although there’s no soft cushioned chair available at this cafe that could make sitting down for a couple of hours more comfortable, I found myself coming back to this place on different occasions already just for the cozy ambiance. One time I came to read, the other time just to get dessert, and last time I was there was when I had a night cap with a friend of mine after having dinner in the area. The only downside is probably they closed kind of early on weekends so you have to move somewhere else if you want to hang out with your friends after 10.30.

Ellie • 엘리

Address: 서울 종로구 수표로28길 21-6
Telephone: 02-2135-3360
Hours: 12:00 - 22:00 Sun to Thu | 12:00 - 22:30 Fri - Sat

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